I Ketut Sunarta is the General Manager of Bali Eco Adventure and Resort located in Bayad, Tegallalang, Gianyar, Bali. He also serves as a trekking guide through jungle, rice fields, across a river and finally through tunnels that lead into Goa Maya. As a child Ketut was told by his parents that these ancient irrigation tunnels and cave were ‘dangerous.”
This risky reputation began in the 11th Century with the killing of the evil King of Bedulu, Maya Denawa by his subjects. They prayed to Siva (god of immortality) and Indra (god of goodness) to help them vanquish the king. Maya Denawa’s blood ran into the Petanu River, polluting it for drinking and irrigation.
A natural spring was discovered arising out of the mountain near the river. One day, as a team of men were digging irrigation tunnels Ida Pedanda Griya Sakh Manawatla, a local priest, walked by. He felt a special spiritual power from the mountain. Ida Pedanda instructed the men to cut out a space for meditation in the center of the mountain. Goa (cave) Maya (hidden) was born. The priest used Goa Maya for meditation and ceremony until the spring ran dry.
Goa Maya and her tunnels became extinct until the 18th century. It was during the Dutch occupation that they were reborn into a safe haven for those seeking refuge from the Dutch and later the Japanese and Communists. It was to the benefit of all Balinese that Goa Maya be known as ‘dangerous’ so no one would know who was hiding in the caves and the children and other curious individuals would not venture near them.
Three years ago Ketut and the Swiss proprietor of Bali Eco Adventure and Resort, Peter Studer ventured into the tunnels leading into Goa Maya. They slipped into the narrow crevice in the mountain wall, then crawled on their hands and knees with bats, spiders and snakes until they rediscovered the ancient cave. The low irrigation tunnels have been expanded allowing people to stand upright as they follow the 1000 meter labyrinthine tunnel leading into Goa Maya. Now the cave is no longer dangerous, as daily the villagers provide it with devotional offerings.
I accompany a group of Swiss tourists into the cave and each of us are given flashlights as we enter the warm, moist tunnel. There are a few bats, yet we did not encounter any snakes or spiders. Goa Maya is small, accommodating about 10 people. The previous night a full moon ceremony was held in Goa Maya. The statues contained in the three alcoves-Indra, Siva and Maya Denawa-were beautifully adorned with black and white checkered cloths, flower offerings and colorful umbrellas. When we shut down our flashlights we stand in total, complete darkness. A voice from the group breaks the silence: “I don’t feel fear. I feel hugged by the earth.”
Mangku Ketut Darma is the priest of Goa Giri Putri located in the village of Karangsari on Nusa Penida, an island east of Bali. Mangku Darma was born into the priest class, yet only after a successful career in the hospitality industry on Bali did he return to Nusa Penida to step into his family heritage.
“Every time I returned to Karangsari people would tell me that they received visions or had dreams of me being the priest of the cave. I was very happy in my career. I did not feel called to be a priest.” When two strangers spontaneously told him that it was time for him to claim his birthright, he “prayed and meditated upon their words” and finally returned to begin his new life as a priest. In 2001 Mangku Darma began to create the sacred temple that is now Goa Giri Putri.
Prior to Mangku Darma’s return, the villagers left the cave in its natural state. Now, pilgrims from all over Indonesia journey to receive the blessings of Goa Giri (mountain) Putri (lady). They take home the water from the pool deep inside of the cave. When you ask a Balinese if he or she has been to the cave temple the statement after ‘yes’ is “The hole is so small to enter!” The cave entrance is small then immediately opens up into a vast space. The cave is over 15 meters tall in some sections, extends 310 meters and emerges onto a verdant valley swinging with monkeys.
The sound of dripping water onto the cave floor accompanies a priest guide and myself as we trek through this highly humid cave. We take time to explore tunnels and give offerings at deity statues. The cave is wired with electricity and dimly lit. Goa Giri Putri contains a stage as well as an arena style seating area in front of two large alters for ceremonies.
A most magnificent golden dragon staircase takes us up into the heights of Goa Giri Putri where we go deeper into the cave. An altar with a statue of Parwati, goddess of earth sits next to the sacred spring fed pool. We pass through a small tunnel to descend into a remote room devoted to the deity Vishnu, god of waters and the preserver of life. Mats lie on the floor for those who want to pray and meditate.
The exit room contains a large, generously adorned alter to a Buddhist deity, Dewi Kwan Eem. The Chinese call her Kuan Yin. Mangku Darma says that the religion of the Balinese is a Siva-Buddha tradition weaving the beliefs, rituals, and deities of both Hindu and Buddhist traditions. Dewi Kwan Eem is the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion. She is a deity that all individuals, regardless of their religion, can call upon to relieve suffering.
SIDEBAR: NUSA PENIDA
The island of Nusa Penida along with Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are sub-districts of Bali’s Klungkung regency. Nusa Penida is all about Nature. It is a limestone plateau with white sand beaches, waterfalls, hot springs, diving, snorkeling and mountain trekking. The islanders are eager to welcome. There is no ATM, so fill your wallet with cash. Two ferries leave daily from Padangbai, Bali.
Nusa Penida’s main livelihood is seaweed farming. Due to the bamboo framed seaweed plots surrounding the island and the strong currents, swimming is not recommended. However, there is excellent diving and snorkeling all around the island with coral reefs, giant Manta Rays and Ocean Sunfish (Mola Mola). Stunningly serene Crystal Bay is where to meet up with the mysterious Mola Mola.
You can take a motorbike on the ferry or rent one. There are only a few places to stay on the island. Agus (081 747 941 76) or Wayan (085 237 029 452) are the local guides. There is a dive resort at Toyapakeh that charges 130,000IDR/night for a room with breakfast. If you want a real adventure, stay at The Bali Bird Sanctuary located in Ped. You can help teach English, train Bali Starlings to live in the wild, or learn how to plant organic vegetables. (081 139 8052)
